Meet the Women of Brazzaville, Congo | National Geographic

What does it mean to be an African woman? Well, many things. For the Sapeuses of Brazzaville, Congo, it means dressing up in fabulous fashions, taking on an alter ego that challenges gender conventions and redefines their role in society.

I've spent years documenting the experiences of women across Africa, focusing on themes like our education, sexuality, health, creativity, and self-empowerment. Messani Grace is the leader of Mavula Sape. She's been a Sapeuse for the last three decades, well before women were allowed to join official groups.

Hello! Hi! Thank you for having me. Mama Grace, I'm curious, how did the movement start? The story of La Sape here in Congo started at the end of the Second World War. There were the veterans who left for the war over there. They could see how the French dressed, in culottes, shirts, shoes, colonial helmet. They copied the style from over there.

I find it interesting that part of the movement was taken from the colonial style of dress, but along the way, people started to own it for themselves and said—this is our culture, this is our identity. Initially, there were no Sapeuses, there were only men. When I started dressing in a suit and tie, in the beginning, even I felt embarrassed.

The world of La Sape makes me feel valued. It is a world of respect in places where others cannot easily access it. You are also becoming a Sapeuse. I love it! La Sape represents more than just luxury clothing. It's become a way of life. When I see my mum dress up, it also makes me want to dress like that.

It's rare to see girls at my age become Sapeuses. I am no longer embarrassed. I feel confident to express myself like this. Okay. I love how the women have formed collectives to differentiate themselves and express solidarity. This is how they take control of their own identities and provide a platform and possibilities for other women to do the same.

Female creativity continues to grow across Africa as more and more women take charge, refashioning their roles in society and turning ideas into enterprises. Gambia is known as the smiling coast of Africa. It is the country that inspires my work.

I transform everyday objects into African inspired products. When I have an idea, I talk it through with Kaddija. She understands my work better than anybody else. So sometimes I tell her what I want and she throws in her own ideas too.

DHL services came at a time when we were struggling to send our products abroad to customers as normal process could take months. My creations make me feel proud to be a Gambian and I just want to show Africa to the world.