yego.me
💡 Stop wasting time. Read Youtube instead of watch. Download Chrome Extension

Eaten by Jaws and Big Wave Surfing| Edge of the Unknown on Disney+


less than 1m read
·Nov 10, 2024

JUSTINE DUPONT (VOICEOVER): [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: Four years ago, we moved to Nazaré. And we decided to focus on big wave surfing. Every big wave is different. But I think Nazaré is probably the best place to learn how to deal with big waves.

MAN: For me, surfing big waves is totally terrifying. So much of the training is about how to survive, how not to die. You have to have an incredibly strong mind and body to face off with these 50 or 60 or 70 foot waves. When the lip of the wave crashes, it can feel like a ton of bricks smashing you into concrete. That's the impact zone. Once you're trapped there, it's nearly impossible to get out. You have to find your way to the surface between the waves and get a jet ski driver to pick you up.

FRED DAVID (VOICEOVER): Our work is really dangerous. My goal is first to have Justine safe, second, to find the best way for her.

JUSTINE DUPONT: [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: In Nazaré, she was surfing, like, every swell every day, all day long. And she never fell. So when we got the call for Hawaii for the [INAUDIBLE] contest, she was, like, super confident. She was, OK, I'm ready.

[CHATTER]

[SPEAKING FRENCH]

[MUSIC PLAYING]

More Articles

View All
You Swallowed a Tapeworm – What Now? #kurzgesagt #shorts
BL, you swallowed a tapeworm by accident. What now? Maybe you ate infected raw meat, or perhaps you drank contaminated water. Well, that’s less important now; they’re in your body. How bad it might get depends on whether it’s a lava or an egg. Option on…
The Power Of Journaling | Stoic Exercises For Inner Peace
Journaling is the habit of keeping a diary or log about our experiences, ideas, insights, and anything else that life evokes in our minds. The Stoics have a long-standing tradition in journaling, with Marcus Aurelius’ Meditations as clearest evidence. Wri…
The 5 Dumbest Purchases I’ve Made In My 20’s
What’s up, you guys? It’s Graham here. So the year is almost over, and in five more months, I am no longer going to be in my twenties because I’m gonna be turning 30. That means I’m going to be entering into a whole new world of adult responsibilities and…
3 rules to quickly improve your life
Okay, so here are three rules to live by that will quickly improve your life. Rule number one: Follow the path of most resistance. Now, this obviously isn’t an absolute rule. Like, you probably have a lot of resistance towards driving into oncoming traff…
The Entire History of Space, I guess
[Music] Earth and civilization as we know it has come a long way in the past 200,000 years and has experienced a multitude of changes. In that time, the human species has only existed for a mere 0.0015% of the immense 13.7 billion year age of the universe…
Beta decay | Physics | Khan Academy
Did you know that paper industries can use radioactivity to ensure consistent thickness throughout the paper? That’s right! But doesn’t it make you wonder how do you use radioactivity to do that? Well, let’s find out. If you have a very heavy nucleus, th…