yego.me
💡 Stop wasting time. Read Youtube instead of watch. Download Chrome Extension

Eaten by Jaws and Big Wave Surfing| Edge of the Unknown on Disney+


less than 1m read
·Nov 10, 2024

JUSTINE DUPONT (VOICEOVER): [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: Four years ago, we moved to Nazaré. And we decided to focus on big wave surfing. Every big wave is different. But I think Nazaré is probably the best place to learn how to deal with big waves.

MAN: For me, surfing big waves is totally terrifying. So much of the training is about how to survive, how not to die. You have to have an incredibly strong mind and body to face off with these 50 or 60 or 70 foot waves. When the lip of the wave crashes, it can feel like a ton of bricks smashing you into concrete. That's the impact zone. Once you're trapped there, it's nearly impossible to get out. You have to find your way to the surface between the waves and get a jet ski driver to pick you up.

FRED DAVID (VOICEOVER): Our work is really dangerous. My goal is first to have Justine safe, second, to find the best way for her.

JUSTINE DUPONT: [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: In Nazaré, she was surfing, like, every swell every day, all day long. And she never fell. So when we got the call for Hawaii for the [INAUDIBLE] contest, she was, like, super confident. She was, OK, I'm ready.

[CHATTER]

[SPEAKING FRENCH]

[MUSIC PLAYING]

More Articles

View All
Protecting Ancient Artifacts | Explorer
Nadia’s help, the museum agreed to let me inspect the seized antiquities. “Where are you keeping the antiquities?” I asked. “Down here,” was the response from a curator of the museum. This kind of “jewy” Ramon punk guy looked a bit out of place, but th…
The procrastination cure you don't want to hear
I think one of the most common problems that people have is not that they don’t know what to do to dramatically move their life forward in a substantial way. Like, you know exactly what you need to do right now. There’s probably something that you’ve been…
Michael Seibel - Startup Investor School Day 2
So just a couple of notes. If you’ve noticed, a lot—maybe all—of the presenters thus far are YC people. That’s not going to end right now. However, the rest of the course is mostly, almost exclusively, perspectives on investing from outside of YC. So, don…
Michael Burry Explains How to Invest (5 Key Lessons)
We bought basically short 8.4 billion of credit default swaps um related to mortgages or financial companies. You must have been pretty confident that this thing was going to blow. We had a giant bet for us, and I was extremely confident in the outcome. …
15 Experiences You Have As You Get Richer
Your journey through life grows richer as your pockets do. More money means unlocking new levels of experiences and adventures. It’s not just about having fancy stuff; it’s about the unique, amazing things you get to do and see. Here are 15 experiences yo…
Deadly Waters: Crocodiles and Adventure | Edge of the Unknown on Disney+
[MUSIC PLAYING] Most rivers, when you get to a calm section, you can rest a little bit. But on Murch, that calm, flat water is definitely more terrifying than any of the white water. MAN: Being a kayaker in Central Africa, inevitably, you’re going to hav…