yego.me
💡 Stop wasting time. Read Youtube instead of watch. Download Chrome Extension

Eaten by Jaws and Big Wave Surfing| Edge of the Unknown on Disney+


less than 1m read
·Nov 10, 2024

JUSTINE DUPONT (VOICEOVER): [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: Four years ago, we moved to Nazaré. And we decided to focus on big wave surfing. Every big wave is different. But I think Nazaré is probably the best place to learn how to deal with big waves.

MAN: For me, surfing big waves is totally terrifying. So much of the training is about how to survive, how not to die. You have to have an incredibly strong mind and body to face off with these 50 or 60 or 70 foot waves. When the lip of the wave crashes, it can feel like a ton of bricks smashing you into concrete. That's the impact zone. Once you're trapped there, it's nearly impossible to get out. You have to find your way to the surface between the waves and get a jet ski driver to pick you up.

FRED DAVID (VOICEOVER): Our work is really dangerous. My goal is first to have Justine safe, second, to find the best way for her.

JUSTINE DUPONT: [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: In Nazaré, she was surfing, like, every swell every day, all day long. And she never fell. So when we got the call for Hawaii for the [INAUDIBLE] contest, she was, like, super confident. She was, OK, I'm ready.

[CHATTER]

[SPEAKING FRENCH]

[MUSIC PLAYING]

More Articles

View All
Deriving formula for centripetal acceleration from angular velocity | AP Physics 1 | Khan Academy
[Instructor] In multiple videos we have already talked about if something is moving in a circular motion at a fixed speed, its velocity is constantly changing. Why is that? Because velocity is a vector, and a vector has not just a magnitude, which would…
2008 Berkshire Hathaway Annual Meeting (Full Version)
[Music] Folks, this just in! It appears that Warren Buffett has struck a deal to trade jobs with daytime soap opera diva Susan Lucci. Buffett has reportedly negotiated a permanent spot on the cast of All My Children. Apparently, Ms. Lucci is en route to O…
Explorer Albert Lin searches for the lost city of the Maya | Lost Cities With Albert Lin
Maya guides, K’in and Bor, will lead us to the mountain. And Mexican archeologist and climber Arcelia García will help me explore it. That’s got to be the Red Mountain. It looks like it. Chak Aktun. Chak Aktun, or Red Mountain, lies around two miles to t…
Curvature formula, part 5
So let’s sum up where we are so far. We’re looking at this formula and trying to understand why it corresponds to curvature, why it tells you how much a curve actually curves. The first thing we did is we noticed that this numerator corresponds to a cert…
6 MORE Tricks, Hacks, and Pranks -- "Up All Knight" Episode 3
Knock knock. Who’s there? Panther. Panther who? Panther, no pan! I’m going swimming. [Music] [Applause] Thank you, thank you. Welcome to Up All Night! I’m a knight. I’m a horse. Nay! We’ve got a great show for you today. Topic number one: games an…
Sun Tzu | The Art of War
If you know neither the enemy nor yourself, you will succumb in every battle. Sun Tzu War is part of life. It’s in the nature of most living organisms to engage in battle, defeat opponents, and to dominate. With humans, we see this happen in war, in bus…