yego.me
💡 Stop wasting time. Read Youtube instead of watch. Download Chrome Extension

Eaten by Jaws and Big Wave Surfing| Edge of the Unknown on Disney+


less than 1m read
·Nov 10, 2024

JUSTINE DUPONT (VOICEOVER): [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: Four years ago, we moved to Nazaré. And we decided to focus on big wave surfing. Every big wave is different. But I think Nazaré is probably the best place to learn how to deal with big waves.

MAN: For me, surfing big waves is totally terrifying. So much of the training is about how to survive, how not to die. You have to have an incredibly strong mind and body to face off with these 50 or 60 or 70 foot waves. When the lip of the wave crashes, it can feel like a ton of bricks smashing you into concrete. That's the impact zone. Once you're trapped there, it's nearly impossible to get out. You have to find your way to the surface between the waves and get a jet ski driver to pick you up.

FRED DAVID (VOICEOVER): Our work is really dangerous. My goal is first to have Justine safe, second, to find the best way for her.

JUSTINE DUPONT: [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: In Nazaré, she was surfing, like, every swell every day, all day long. And she never fell. So when we got the call for Hawaii for the [INAUDIBLE] contest, she was, like, super confident. She was, OK, I'm ready.

[CHATTER]

[SPEAKING FRENCH]

[MUSIC PLAYING]

More Articles

View All
I f***ed up by not buying this house (the one that got away)
And here I am. I would have been able to either buy it at ninety-six thousand dollars and get free insurance money to fix it up, or I could renegotiate the price, taking it as is, fix it up myself, and probably made, right there, just easily, just right t…
Worked examples: Summation notation | Accumulation and Riemann sums | AP Calculus AB | Khan Academy
We’re told to consider the sum 2 plus 5 plus 8 plus 11. Which expression is equal to the sum above? And they tell us to choose all answers that apply. So, like always, pause the video and see if you can work through this on your own. When you look at the…
The Rise of the Machines – Why Automation is Different this Time
How long do you think it will take before machines do your job better than you do? Automation used to mean big, stupid machines doing repetitive work in factories. Today, they can land aircraft, diagnose cancer, and trade stocks. We are entering a new age…
8 WAYS HOW KINDNESS WILL RUIN YOUR LIFE | STOICISM INSIGHTS
Is being overly kind actually more harmful than helpful? In a world that often equates kindness with virtue, it might seem counterintuitive to suggest that there’s such a thing as too much generosity. Yet, stepping back and examining the philosophy of Sto…
Male Polar Bear Fight Club - Ep. 2 | Wildlife: The Big Freeze
(Polar bear whining) - It’s been four months since your last bite. (Snow crunching) You may fool yourself into digging out some frozen kelp, but you know that dinner actually sits comfortably (seal purring) 200 miles away. It’s so frustrating. (Polar bear…
Tenant Trashed My Property | What It Looks Like Now
What’s up you guys? It’s Graham here! So today is gonna be a really special video because what you’re about to see has taken six months to put together. This has really been quite the journey that’s about to come to an end. So for those who have not been…