yego.me
💡 Stop wasting time. Read Youtube instead of watch. Download Chrome Extension

Eaten by Jaws and Big Wave Surfing| Edge of the Unknown on Disney+


less than 1m read
·Nov 10, 2024

JUSTINE DUPONT (VOICEOVER): [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: Four years ago, we moved to Nazaré. And we decided to focus on big wave surfing. Every big wave is different. But I think Nazaré is probably the best place to learn how to deal with big waves.

MAN: For me, surfing big waves is totally terrifying. So much of the training is about how to survive, how not to die. You have to have an incredibly strong mind and body to face off with these 50 or 60 or 70 foot waves. When the lip of the wave crashes, it can feel like a ton of bricks smashing you into concrete. That's the impact zone. Once you're trapped there, it's nearly impossible to get out. You have to find your way to the surface between the waves and get a jet ski driver to pick you up.

FRED DAVID (VOICEOVER): Our work is really dangerous. My goal is first to have Justine safe, second, to find the best way for her.

JUSTINE DUPONT: [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: In Nazaré, she was surfing, like, every swell every day, all day long. And she never fell. So when we got the call for Hawaii for the [INAUDIBLE] contest, she was, like, super confident. She was, OK, I'm ready.

[CHATTER]

[SPEAKING FRENCH]

[MUSIC PLAYING]

More Articles

View All
The Guerilla Cyclists of Mexico City | Podcast | Overheard at National Geographic
[Music] I was born and raised in the chaotic streets of Mexico City. This is Jorge Kanyes, an activist. He’s standing at an intersection in Mexico City, wearing a black mask and a cape. I was an ordinary citizen until one day I went to a lucha libre match…
Just Because You Think It, Doesn’t Mean It’s True
When Seneca the Younger was accused of adultery with the emperor’s niece, he was banished to Corsica. Seneca’s exile caused his mother, Helvia, tremendous grief; she had difficulties coping with her son’s absence. So, he wrote her several letters in which…
Characters' thoughts and feelings | Reading | Khan Academy
Hello readers! Today we’re going to talk about mind reading, also known as understanding characters’ thoughts and feelings. I’m kind of serious here. One of the things that I think is magical about reading books and stories is that they let you see what c…
The Stanford Prison Experiment: Unlocking The Truth | Official Trailer | National Geographic
I’ve only been in jail once: the Stanford prison experiment. In the summer of 1971, Dr. Zimbardo took a bunch of college kids, randomly assigned them to be prisoners and guards, and locked them in the basement. The only thing we told the guards was, “Do w…
Multiplying two 2-digit numbers using partial products
In a previous video, we figured out a way to multiply a two-digit number times a one-digit number. What we did is we broke up the two-digit numbers in terms of its place value. So, the three here in the tens place, that’s three tens; this is seven ones. …
Politics and indigenous relations in the New England colonies | AP US History | Khan Academy
[Instructor] In the last video, we began discussing some of the similarities and differences between the English colonists who landed at New England versus those who landed in Virginia. Thanks to different reasons for migrating to the New World and a much…