yego.me
💡 Stop wasting time. Read Youtube instead of watch. Download Chrome Extension

Eaten by Jaws and Big Wave Surfing| Edge of the Unknown on Disney+


less than 1m read
·Nov 10, 2024

JUSTINE DUPONT (VOICEOVER): [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: Four years ago, we moved to Nazaré. And we decided to focus on big wave surfing. Every big wave is different. But I think Nazaré is probably the best place to learn how to deal with big waves.

MAN: For me, surfing big waves is totally terrifying. So much of the training is about how to survive, how not to die. You have to have an incredibly strong mind and body to face off with these 50 or 60 or 70 foot waves. When the lip of the wave crashes, it can feel like a ton of bricks smashing you into concrete. That's the impact zone. Once you're trapped there, it's nearly impossible to get out. You have to find your way to the surface between the waves and get a jet ski driver to pick you up.

FRED DAVID (VOICEOVER): Our work is really dangerous. My goal is first to have Justine safe, second, to find the best way for her.

JUSTINE DUPONT: [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: In Nazaré, she was surfing, like, every swell every day, all day long. And she never fell. So when we got the call for Hawaii for the [INAUDIBLE] contest, she was, like, super confident. She was, OK, I'm ready.

[CHATTER]

[SPEAKING FRENCH]

[MUSIC PLAYING]

More Articles

View All
Evolution, Adaptive Beliefs and Tigers
Natural selection only cares about what’s adaptive. Both true and false beliefs can be adaptive as long as they increase an animal’s chance of survival. Why should we expect natural selection to favor true adaptive beliefs over false ones? Alvin Plantinga…
The FED Just RESET The Housing Market
What’s up, Graham? It’s guys here, and you’re not going to believe this. In the middle of a real estate slowdown, a possible 30% hit to home prices, and seven percent mortgage rates, a brand new policy was just released that would loosen credit score requ…
Where Did Pablo Picasso's Genius Come From? | National Geographic
Where does genius come from? Pablo Picasso’s journey to genius began with a puff of his uncle Salvador’s cigar, so claims the man himself. It’s possible this puff ignited what some historians call the rage to master: a voracious dedication to push the bou…
It Started: Car Prices Are Falling 50%
What’s up, Grandma’s guys here! And it’s official: after seemingly unstoppable growth, the used car market has begun to collapse. A new report from Black Book just found that subcompact car prices have declined 3.68% in just the last week alone. As wholes…
I FOUND THE 5 BEST BANK ACCOUNTS!
What’s up you guys! It’s Graham here. So one week ago, I made a video going over the worst bank accounts out there. These are the ones that charge you endless fees, that pay you no interest, that rob you as soon as you drop below their daily minimums, and…
Face-to-Face With Wildlife in Florida’s Hidden Wilderness | Best Job Ever
When you swim into one of these Springs and then a manatee comes around the corner, it’s like everything slows down and takes a breath. It sometimes will swim right up to you; you can count the whiskers on its face or see the propeller marks on its back. …