yego.me
💡 Stop wasting time. Read Youtube instead of watch. Download Chrome Extension

Eaten by Jaws and Big Wave Surfing| Edge of the Unknown on Disney+


less than 1m read
·Nov 10, 2024

JUSTINE DUPONT (VOICEOVER): [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: Four years ago, we moved to Nazaré. And we decided to focus on big wave surfing. Every big wave is different. But I think Nazaré is probably the best place to learn how to deal with big waves.

MAN: For me, surfing big waves is totally terrifying. So much of the training is about how to survive, how not to die. You have to have an incredibly strong mind and body to face off with these 50 or 60 or 70 foot waves. When the lip of the wave crashes, it can feel like a ton of bricks smashing you into concrete. That's the impact zone. Once you're trapped there, it's nearly impossible to get out. You have to find your way to the surface between the waves and get a jet ski driver to pick you up.

FRED DAVID (VOICEOVER): Our work is really dangerous. My goal is first to have Justine safe, second, to find the best way for her.

JUSTINE DUPONT: [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: In Nazaré, she was surfing, like, every swell every day, all day long. And she never fell. So when we got the call for Hawaii for the [INAUDIBLE] contest, she was, like, super confident. She was, OK, I'm ready.

[CHATTER]

[SPEAKING FRENCH]

[MUSIC PLAYING]

More Articles

View All
Rant: The TRUTH about happiness
I’m just going to rant a little bit about happiness because it seems like a lot of people are very hung up about buying a certain thing, achieving a certain level of success, achieving a certain level of wealth. So many materialistic things that they thi…
Mapping the Future of Global Civilization | Nat Geo Live
That world of political geography is not going away. But, at the same time, we are engaging in this topographical engineering. These very robust engineering systems by which we modify the planet to suit what we want it to do, what our various economic and…
YC SUS: Kat Mañalac and Eric Migicovsky discuss Week 2 SUS Lectures
Good morning everyone, and good evening. It could be anywhere actually. I’d like to start somewhere. My name is Eric, and I’m the facilitator, of course, facilitator here at Startup School. It’s a pleasure to be joined by Kat. “Hi everyone, I’m Kat, a pa…
Americapox: The Missing Plague
Between the first Europeans arriving in 1492 and the Victorian age, the indigenous population of the New World dropped by at least 90%. The cause? Not the conquistadors and company – they killed lots of people, but their death count is nothing compared to…
The REALISTIC Millionaire Investing Advice In Your 20s
What’s up, guys? It’s Graham here. So, some of you know I just recently turned 30 years old, and looking back, my 20s have been absolutely by far the most transformative years of my entire life. Not only in terms of investing my money and building my wea…
❄️🇬🇧 London Snow Day 🇬🇧❄️
Wow, it finally snowed again in London! A snow day not to be squandered inside. I’m supposed to be working today, but does daily vlogging count? I’m not a daily vlogger, but I think if I make a vlog, that can totally count. Come join me as I do nothing m…