yego.me
💡 Stop wasting time. Read Youtube instead of watch. Download Chrome Extension

Eaten by Jaws and Big Wave Surfing| Edge of the Unknown on Disney+


less than 1m read
·Nov 10, 2024

JUSTINE DUPONT (VOICEOVER): [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: Four years ago, we moved to Nazaré. And we decided to focus on big wave surfing. Every big wave is different. But I think Nazaré is probably the best place to learn how to deal with big waves.

MAN: For me, surfing big waves is totally terrifying. So much of the training is about how to survive, how not to die. You have to have an incredibly strong mind and body to face off with these 50 or 60 or 70 foot waves. When the lip of the wave crashes, it can feel like a ton of bricks smashing you into concrete. That's the impact zone. Once you're trapped there, it's nearly impossible to get out. You have to find your way to the surface between the waves and get a jet ski driver to pick you up.

FRED DAVID (VOICEOVER): Our work is really dangerous. My goal is first to have Justine safe, second, to find the best way for her.

JUSTINE DUPONT: [SPEAKING FRENCH]

FRED DAVID: In Nazaré, she was surfing, like, every swell every day, all day long. And she never fell. So when we got the call for Hawaii for the [INAUDIBLE] contest, she was, like, super confident. She was, OK, I'm ready.

[CHATTER]

[SPEAKING FRENCH]

[MUSIC PLAYING]

More Articles

View All
INFLATION WARNING: The 2020 DEBT Bubble Explained
What’s up guys, it’s Graham here! So, I want to take some time to address a recurring comment and concern that’s been showing up a lot on my channel lately, and that would be: Is Carole Baskin guilty? And did she do it? To which I say, possibly. But I th…
Introduction to Gibbs free energy | Applications of thermodynamics | AP Chemistry | Khan Academy
Gibbs free energy is symbolized by G, and change in Gibbs free energy is symbolized by delta G. The change in free energy, delta G, is equal to the change in enthalpy, delta H, minus the temperature in Kelvin times the change in entropy, delta S. When de…
Identifying a sample and population | Study design | AP Statistics | Khan Academy
Administrators at Riverview High School surveyed a random sample of 100 of their seniors to see how they felt about the lunch offerings at the school’s cafeteria. So, you have all of the seniors; I’m assuming there’s more than a hundred of them. Then the…
Trick involving Maclaurin expansion of cosx
The first three nonzero terms of the McLaurin series for the function ( f(x) = x \cos(x) ). So one thing that you’re immediately going to find, let’s just remind ourselves what a McLaurin series looks like. Our ( f(x) ) can be approximated by the polynom…
Nat Geo Explorers discuss the importance of inclusive communities | Pride Month Roundtable | Nat Geo
All of the work we do is based and affected by our identities, right? Whether that is conservation or highlighting social stories, all of those cool ideas, we owe them to our differences and our diversity. It makes us stronger, and it makes us think outsi…
Worked example: Calculating the pH after a weak acid–strong base reaction (excess acid)
Let’s look at a reaction between a weak acid, acetic acid, and a strong base, sodium hydroxide. Let’s say we have 100 milliliters of a 2.0 molar solution of aqueous acetic acid, and that’s mixed with 100 milliliters of a 1.0 molar solution of aqueous sodi…