Nkashi: Race for the Okavango | National Geographic

The water is a gift from God. I live in the Delta. All of my life is in the Delta. My name is Gobonamang Kgetho. I was born a poler. For you to be a poler, you have to know how to pole a mokoro (canoe). You also need to know your way around the water, and know the waterways in your area. You have to know your routes really well. Because if you do not have a nkashi (pole), you are not considered a man here. All I know is my nkashi (pole) and mokoro (canoe), nkashi and mokoro.

From a young age, my parents taught me that we are fishermen. That is our main way of life here. Then from there, whatever I need to eat, I can get from the Delta. A mokoro doesn't have anything that can harm any creature or plant. When you use one, you are able to hear each and every sound produced by nature. There are not many places in the world where you can find fresh water sources like here. We as Batswana must protect the Okavango Delta. It is our home and we must preserve it. That is why we race.

Thapelo: I don't know whether I'll win, only God knows. I am an old man, you know.

Kgetho: Seronga is going to win. That's one thing I am sure about. Me too! The reason why I say Seronga is going to win is because of the way we do things around here. If you want to see how good someone is at poling, you can tell from their takeoff. The mokoro should go in a beeline from start to finish. The guys from Gudigwa were out of this world, they were very passionate. I did not believe they could actually beat us, who were born doing this. I would really appreciate it if Seronga won. Oh! It's already that time? Yeah, my donkey cart is on its way. We will meet again some other time. We will meet again tomorrow. If you do spot my cattle, please put them in the kraal (corral) for me. I'll look out for them.

Today I’m in Seronga for the Nkashi Classic. This is my home. When we were kids we used to play here. We will be meeting right here to take part in the Nkashi Classic event. The Nkashi Classic is a one-day time trial race using mekoro, a traditional mode of transportation in the Okavango Delta. Mekoro (canoes) are vital tools in the Delta. In the olden days, we used traditional wooden dugout mekoro. They weren't expensive, as we made them ourselves.

But things have changed. We now use modern mekoro that are made out of fiberglass. A nkashi (pole) is a tool we use to propel and steer a mokoro. People never thought that you could turn poling into a competitive sport.

Keemetse: I challenge you to beat this one!

GB: Who? Him? He fears me! He is the reigning 2018 champion, but he fears me. He fears me. This is the man who holds the belt.

Mista Tee: How you doin’, how you doin’, how you doin’?

Koki: Oh my God. I’m sleepy and I’m hungry. Hi guys! La dolce vita baby, la dolce vita! My name is Koketso Mookodi, but most people call me Koki. I am the Country Director at Botswana Wild Bird Trust and National Geographic Okavango Wilderness Project. We work to help protect the environment and the people who work and live in the Okavango Delta.

It's encouraging for fellow Batswana to see the beauty of their environment, and feel proud about their way of life. Number Two! Number Two! Beautiful! Good luck! That’s why we started holding the Nkashi Classic in 2018. What we are going to do is that you will be racing against time. We want to see who gets the fastest time out of everyone. You are not competing alone. You are competing with all the villages from this area. Thank you very much. All the best gentlemen, all the best!

Whoever dares to compete against me, I will gladly sort them out. I am not scared. If I was going to win... I shouldn’t say “if.” I am going to win. I would really like to win the Nkashi Classic for my home village of Seronga. Seronga is a village which is located at the top of the Delta, where the Delta actually begins. I grew up in Seronga, from a very young age to this day. I spend a lot of my time here in Seronga with my father. My father is the one who taught me how to carve nkashi. So I grew up with the skill.

My name is Kgetho Kgetho. I’m named after my father. I am a native of Jao. I was born there. After my father passed, I was raised by my mother, and we later moved to Seronga. I harvest water lily roots and go fishing. The mokoro and nkashi allow me to do these things. I carve the nkashi out of the Silver Terminalia tree. I was taught this by the elders. I live here in the cattle post looking after the few cattle we have. That is basically how I live.

If it was not for the pandemic, I could carve a wooden mokoro, nkashi, and other artifacts, and sell them to tourists. I could also transport tourists in my mokoro. This is how I earned a living pre-pandemic. Back in the day, if it wasn't for these aches in my body, I would excel in poling, even beat at least one person. Now I no longer have much strength because of these aches. I personally have entered the competition twice in Maun. If it wasn't for my ailments I would enter the competition again.

GB: I really love this job of poling. Because it is something I have been doing from a young age. We were taught these skills by our parents. I’ve been practicing poling so that I win the Nkashi Classic race, but I also know that the other competitors are also working hard in order to win. There are many top-notch polers from across the Delta, some of which I have even mentored myself. We face many challenges as women, especially women like me who aren't educated. You end up doing jobs that you as a woman aren't supposed to do. Just like poling today, it was done by men because it's hard work.

But because life is tough, you do whatever you can get your hands on, because if you just sit, you won't survive. That's why I ended up poling. That's why I want to enter these competitions. I am determined to do well in the Nkashi Classic race. My name is Tjadza Tapologo, but I also go by the name of “Pretty.” I grew up in a village called Toromoja. Even to this day I consider myself a resident of that village, even though I currently reside in another village.

The difference between Toromoja and Boro is that, here in Boro where I live... in Boro I learned to pole a mokoro. The people in this village also welcomed me with a lot of love. After I got my guiding license, they welcomed me into the society of polers. It is not easy for an outsider to enjoy benefits which are generally meant for locals. This is possible because of the love they have for me and I for them.

Pretty: Morning, morning, morning ladies! We are going inside here. Over there you can see some animals, it depends.

Nardia: And we’ll see lots of birds? You love birds?

Yeah. I also do love birds. Oh, great! Yeah, I do love birds. Even though I’m still learning. If you love birdwatching, this is the place to be. Whoever wants to learn about birds like me can learn here and I teach what I know. Can I get in here? Are you sure? Your balance must be really good, huh? Are you ready, Ailin? Are you ready for this? Backwards. Backwards.

I really love the Okavango Delta. The river is breathtaking. I would like for environmental education to continue, so that the Delta remains beautiful. If you see the place you'll surely tell others and they'll also want to come see the beauty themselves.

GB: Competition will be tough. This year we’ve got really powerful polers. One of them is Ralf Nkeletsang. He’s still got the belt for being the fastest poler in the Okavango Delta. He is an engine personified, an entire motorboat. Horsepower!

My name is Nkeletsang Mosupa, but people call me Ralf at my workplace. I am from a place called Jao Flats. Poling is important, especially for people living in Jao, because poling can improve their lives. My village uses mekoro as its main mode of transport. Every destination reached is because of mekoro. Even my hands bear the evidence of poling. This is a sure sign that I use mekoro in everything that I do.

It has become imprinted in me, something that I am used to very much. I even won a mokoro of my own in one of these competitions. Competition was tough. By the grace of God, I won. I was very happy because it was my first time entering in those competitions, but I still won. I have so many people who have got my back: my father Comet, siblings, and my wife. They are the ones who are on my side, supporting and encouraging me towards these competitions.

If I do win again, not only will my village be happy, but it will also serve as motivation to the upcoming generation as they take part in the competitions, a little push for them to do even better than me. Here in the Delta, water is a resource that we are heavily reliant upon. When there is no water in the Delta we suffer a lot, but when there is water, life is good.

Radio: Covid or not, we are going to conquer this business thing...

Kgetho: As I was saying, I was just poling... We were ferrying tourists, and I was with Saleshando, and we had an encounter with an elephant.

GB: There is a lot of change that goes on in our traditions, especially our Wayei traditions that I learned from my father. When the elephant heard the water splashing from him falling, the elephant started sprinting in our direction. Then he got up really fast and jumped back into the mokoro. We were people who lived by the river. That is no longer the case. As we speak, rivers are running dry. To the point that even big rivers have very little water in them.

When we are in the Delta, we are home. We used to not need permits to fish, and no one could stop us from fishing, unlike today. We never knew that fish could run out. We knew fish to be an infinite resource. But things have changed. When fish population started declining, I realized that I needed to supplement my income. That’s why I joined the Okavango Wilderness Project’s annual Delta Crossing from Seronga to Maun.

GB: Greetings, everyone!

ALL: Greetings! How's everyone doing?

We're doing great! I'm really happy to see you all here. I hope you're all excited to join us in this journey.

Motty: We're really excited.

GB: For some of you, it is your first time on this trip. We thought that this expedition was not going to take place. But now we even have ladies on the team. Thank you, miss. Thank you! Thank you for signing up to be one of the polers. I’m going to pole hard!

KOKI: So that we can further our goal of protecting the Delta, in addition to the Nkashi Classic, the Okavango Wilderness Project also conducts an annual Delta Crossing expedition, which provides opportunities for the youth and local polers and lets them prove themselves in the water.

GB: What is this that you have cooked? It looks appetizing.

ALL: It's pounded meat.

GB: From which animal?

A goat.

A goat!? This means we're going to have a wonderful evening. Another pot of food! Wow! We're going to eat till we drop today.

Koki: The Okavango Wilderness Project’s annual Delta Crossing takes about three weeks to finish. During those three weeks, we travel roughly 300 kilometers. Along the way, a group of scientists and polers conduct scientific surveys, including a bird population survey. They also assess how the water is doing, does it have any chemicals or bacteria that could harm the animals.

The people who pole mekoro know where everything is. They know the routes better than any technology could ever lead us. It's very important to us that we work with them, and find ways to ensure that they can be active participants in the work that is being done in the Delta, so that they can also earn an income and build a better life for themselves and their families.

Guys to begin with, this is our 11th annual expedition through the Delta. We all need to applaud ourselves for just getting here. I think this is our first big achievement on this expedition, is simply just getting here. Getting through the Covid curtain. A lot of us had a long way to go. But I think it’s amazing that we’ve all made it and I think we need to give ourselves all a big hand, because that’s amazing.

Pretty: Today our journey from Seronga to Maun by mekoro begins. This will be my very first time going on a long journey like this.

[Phone ringing]

GB: So today, they were phoning him on his phone... Then on the way they found the boat.

JOHN: On an island, or where?

On the channel.

Floating?

Floating.

Free?

Free. There was no one there. With the axe inside. So, they’re wondering where he is.

John: We were preparing to launch the expedition, and we were aware that GB’s father, Mr. Kgetho, has been missing for two days. Today is now the third day. We’ve managed to get a chopper in from a close-by camp to go try and find Mr. Kgetho. It’s going to land any moment now, and we’ll put GB onto the chopper with one of our medics, Scott, and a trauma kit, and see if we can go and add to the already search party out there.

Rainer: We can’t go on this mission with GB not knowing where his dad is. So let’s just stay here for a day. We can reconfigure our mekoro. We’ll do a short little paddle now to make sure all the mekoro are nice and stable and everything’s good. But we can’t leave if GB’s dad is missing. It’s not right.

John: It’s the worst news we could’ve asked for, really... We’ve been trying to find GB’s father now this morning after having got a report that he’d been missing since Monday. And unfortunately, quite soon after the helicopter got overhead, the mokoro team discovered Mr. Kgetho Kgetho’s body underneath his mokoro, so we’re unsure of what’s happened. He was an old, old man. Whatever’s happened, he died where his heart is, that’s for sure.

This is when [people in the community] are going to realize that this person was very important, very important to their lives. Now the person who they have been heavily reliant upon is no longer here. I've told them before that one day this old man is going to die. Now we are all here and we'll all be crying.

GB: My father died during the Covid pandemic, and that was a surprise when people did attend the funeral. He was a man who was adored and held in high esteem. People close to him were all affected by his loss. Despite his old age, he looked like he could have lived a long time. The parent of all parents. A leader of leaders.

Ralf: As you can see, people are busy packing up. We're leaving soon.

Pretty: GB's father has passed on, so we were waiting for the funeral to be over. The funeral processions ended yesterday and now we're leaving. What delayed us is that GB is part of our expedition. Due to the funeral, he won't make it. Ladies and gentlemen, we're now leaving. I'd like to believe that everyone is fit and happy. Everyone is happy for this morning. Now our expedition is commencing.

Pula!

Ralf: Along this journey, the researchers will be site viewing and photographing each and every animal we come across, be it birds or the big animals. While on the way, the birds and wild animals are counted as well as the depths of the waters at different intervals measured. This goes on for as long as we are on the journey until we reach Maun.

They have also taught us to identify and differentiate between the animals and birds we come across, which we really appreciate. They are a part of the Delta and since we are a part of it too, we have to know them. Now when a poler sees a bird they are able to identify it. We sometimes pole the whole day until evening without a break. That's why strength is a great quality in a poler.

I'm conditioning my body, because if you don't train and go straight into the Nkashi race, it's a bit tough. But if you train, when it comes time for you to pole, you perform excellently. Because if you do not train, then compete suddenly, you're going to fail.

Pretty: I'm very proud to be part of a trip like this. Even though I know we might meet some obstacles along the way. The polers from Boro that I came with are Ms. Abigail and Ms. Esther. For us to pole long distance, especially as women, we will be the first women to do this.

What I love about being a poler is that it has taught me about this beautiful environment. I also have learned a lot about wildlife. They make the Okavango special. That's an important lesson we also have to teach our children and future generations, how to conserve the environment.

Poling requires bravery. Because the job is hard. You meet a lot of challenges along the way. Animals such as elephants, lions, and leopards, are very dangerous, like hippos. We travel in hippos' habitats. They can just attack the mokoro and capsize it. But because they attract tourists, you learn their habits and get used to them.

Beautiful sunset! Eish, so beautiful! The poler that I think is strongest enough here, who could win the race, is Ralf. He is the one who can make the expedition polers proud. He is very strong.

GB: I failed to participate in the Delta Crossing as a result of my father's death. He was a good listener. He never criticized, and was always willing to teach others at every opportunity. For some time my mind was not focused on racing. But then I realized my father would have wanted me to compete. When I see a mokoro and nkashi, I just see my father. That’s why I want to enter the competition. To demonstrate that I have a good pedigree in poling, taking after my father.

GB: Who is crying?

Ntsheletsang: It's Kgosi.

Oh okay, what's the matter with him?

He just woke up.

Greetings, everyone!

Unfortunately, I won't be able to stand.

Greetings!

Good day! How are you?

I'm quite well!

So you are brewing some tea?

Yes, we are, but it is not ready yet.

Oh, that's great! If my father were still alive, he would encourage me to take part in the races. He would say, “Go and win the race!” “What I have taught you is enough!” He always instilled the winning spirit in me.

Come here, my boy.

So, you have come to do your poling stuff?

Yes, ma'am, we have come here to do some poling. There will be some competitions and we will all be competing. It's open to anyone who feels like they are fit enough.

Do you think you will be successful?

Of course, I want to try, I really want to try my best. To be honest, I am going to win.

KG: Be careful, there's another guy called Ralf.

Ralf? He's the one who got the title from that other year and he still has it. Now we want to remove him from that position. So the only person who can remove him from that position is myself.

There is nobody else. The thing is, he is scared, he won't be sleeping for the next few days. Participants have already arrived, the last batch will arrive today.

MAN: So it's divided by villages?

Yes, we're Seronga, then all the other villages in Ngamiland, including villages like Gudigwa and Boro. Even Pretty is here. So it is a very big event.

Yes, sometimes nerves get the best of you. The trick is to just focus on poling. If you start looking around, you think to yourself, “Those guys think I’m doing a terrible job.” My father was a great parent. His encouragement to me to be a winner stays with me forever.

Okay, I am leaving now.

Ntsheletsang: Okay, goodbye!

I'm still going to have a feel of the area, I'll be back. I just want to make myself familiar with the course.

Yes, film me, I am the number one.

GB: The big day has finally arrived! During our participation in the competition, there are other aspects apart from mekoro. The subjects enlighten adults about nature, the Delta, and the wild in general.

GB: Do you have Rasta hats? Woven hats with Rasta colors?

Woman: Yes, I make them.

Koki: To be the winner of the Nkashi Classic, this gives a person a sense of pride because they beat everyone from all the various villages. They have respect for the mokoro, they have pride and joy when it comes to everything related to the mokoro. They want to show the world at large that they are professional polers of mekoro. That's what makes us different from people from other countries.

Keemetse: Makwala Makwala! (name of a famous local athlete)

GB: Don’t let me fall man!

You won’t fall.

Please be lenient on us, look at how they are getting nervous now. Man, I tried [the course] the other day, I nearly died. I did the distance twice. It is tough, let me give you a heads up.

But you are going to disappoint people when you fail!

I won’t. Never. I am from Kajaja my man!

Ralf: Ah, no, this guy says he is from where? Kajaja?

Ah, Kajaja, there are no polers there.

Yeah, there are no polers there.

GB: There will be a marked route that we will be using to race.

Pretty: From number 2, then 3, from 3 you go further to 4, then proceed to the finish point.

Ralf: If you go around, the pegs will guide you.

Mista Tee: Let’s give them a round of applause! These are the ladies who are going to start the race!

GB: Rather than racing against each other, the participants will be racing against the clock to determine the winner.

Basiamang: It was long. It was fine, but the problem is that it was too long.

Pretty! Pretty! Boro! Boro!

GB: If you do not pole fast enough, you risk getting lapped.

Pretty: Darn! It was hard and I really tried my best. I thought I would be able to win but it was too difficult.

GB: There are three categories of competitors: women, veterans, and fastest overall.

The champ is here! The champ is here! The champ is here! The champ is here!

Ralf: I started to have doubts about my nkashi before I even started. It was too short and so I couldn't control it in the way I'm used to.

GB! GB! GB!

GB: I do not doubt my skills in poling, as I am born in this environment and am a "born poler." I felt that it would be better for me to put in effort early on, so that when the time came, I’d have the energy and strength to succeed.

I am dead, my brothers. I am dead. The nkashi almost killed me. It almost killed me.

Bokspits: This was my first time participating in this event. I didn't particularly feel in the mood to run today, but the kids were shouting at us to “go!” They said, "Go try it!" and so I felt obliged to. I couldn't say no to them.

Mista Tee: Let's go, friend! Let's go, friend! With the effort and determination that I managed to muster, I was able to finish as a winner.

Man: If they say, “Race again now,” would you do it?

Bokspits: Bring it on! Bring it on! For that one I will want us to go a little further than this.

Now you want to kill people! If we go again, I will tell them this is a short distance.

Let’s go further! This man has been boasting since before he started.

Pretty: It was challenging! But I'm happy to be here participating, and my wish is to focus on improving and eventually winning a race. I want to inspire and uplift those who live in my area by serving as an example of excellence.

Ralf: In today's race, I came in 4th. In life there are wins and losses. I will continue entering the competition if it returns. I will not be discouraged or cower in fear. Next time, I'll look for a better nkashi.

[Mista Tee announcing Bokspits as winner]

GB: Today was a very good day and I was very happy for my village. Bokspits is my junior, and I trained and taught him the skills of how to pole and control the mokoro. I used to carry him across the river and put him in a mokoro. Now as I look upon him and his achievement, I feel proud that the person from Seronga whom I trained is successful, and that makes me very proud.

Mista Tee: Number Two, Lasty Kedisa!

GB: It's not as if today I've lost. You know the thing with me is that I'm a person of long journeys.

Mista Tee: Number One, Basiamang!

Mista Tee: And the prize goes to Obusitswe Masimo!

GB: When you hear me say that I haven't lost, it's because the children that I teach have done well. So even when it seems like I'm behind, it's not like I am behind forever. Because at least one of the people that I have taught will excel.

I’m inspired by the joy of seeing a fellow Motswana uplifting their life within the Delta, and the love of seeing tourists’ appreciation of the Delta.

I want people from around the world to know that the Okavango Delta I want people from around the world to know that the Okavango Delta and the wildlife is not the only thing that makes this place special.

But it's also the people in this area, and the many skills and talents they possess. I want young Batswana to know that there is nothing that different between them and other outsiders who come to work here.

If you are a person, and you have a love for the environment, love for the Delta that we live in, then you have every right to be involved in its protection. Everyone needs to stand up, get involved, and work to preserve this beautiful place for the future generations to come.

I am very grateful for what I've learned here, because I never knew how important water is. Without water, there is no life.

I recommend this job because it can give women dignity. I’m a role model for many, even those at home. I never expected to achieve what I have achieved. I am very proud of myself.

This job is life. I really love poling and honestly, I would like to do it until I die. I want to be a poler for the rest of my life. It is very important to me. That is why I teach my kids. Because it is our way of life here in the Delta.

I want to teach them because I know it will benefit them in the future. This sport has taught us many great things. Sometimes you lose but sometimes you win. What pleases me most is that many people learned something new from the race.

My dad taught me so much about this place and our way of life. The reason there is a Delta Crossing expedition is because of him. Now people can come and I can share that knowledge.

Conservation of wildlife and the environment began with us, the people who live in the surrounding areas of the Okavango Delta. We should find ways to protect natural resources we live with, such as the birds, wild animals, and so on.

I lost my father to the water, but at the same time I wasn't afraid. Because we are people of the water, we are born from it.